I have heard all kinds of stupid answers and opinions on this subject. I am a retired ASE certified mechanic and worked at Ford for 25 years…… the answer is so simple a 5th grader could understand it. Engineers torture test engines for research and development….. Ford has found that in most new passenger car and light duty pickup engines, 5w20 protects better than 5w30. The ignorant reasons such as CAFE just make me laugh. An engine might gain 1/10th of a mpg with the lighter weight oil so trying to meet CAFE standards is wrong. Ford’s vehicle lineup exceeds CAFE standards by a few mpg. If a manufacturer specifies a certain oil weight, USE IT. I drive a 2001 Ford Ranger and 5w20 and I have used Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend since new……..235,000 miles and runs perfect with just routine maintenance. Some know it alls think they know better than engineers who designed the engines, so be it. For the Diesels 5w20 should never be used.
If someone thinks that Ford, Chrysler, Honda, and Mazda plus others are wrong in specifying 5w20 please give your EVIDENCE!
Back in the 1970s when 10w40 was routinely used and actually specified by the Big 3….when they started recommending 10w30 people were afraid to use it then because they cried it was too thin. Well until the year 2000, 5/10w30 was considered the benchmark oil viscosity for cars and LD trucks. Well now some are whining about 5w20 being too thin…..well all old fashioned thinking will pass.
I am definately not saying 5w30 will hurt a modern engine, but engineers know what they are doing by recommending the thinner oil.
Just bought my 1991 Olds Cutlass Calais, 2.5L Auto. 163,000 miles, VERY GOOD Condition.
I will get the Oil changed before August, it is Hot here… im going 10W-40 Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Blend (I heard 10W-40 -CAN- be used as a year-round oil IF the Temp does not dip below 0.. if it did id let the car warm for 10 minutes, no lie) ..
.. I want to know if i SHOULD have the Timing Belt changed, and my Motor looks very good.. What is involved, generally, with this ‘crucial maintenance’?
I should also point out that i do NOT have a Serpentine belt. It is the 2.5l "Tech 4" Throttle-Body Injected GM 4-cyl.
Thank You.
I know.. the Goal is to get AS MUCh of my "Milkshake Oil" out as possible.
Someone suggested i Change the Oil in 500 Miles. I will do this. Valvoline Synthetic Blend MaxLife 5W-30 has been settled upon for my car. Oil Filter Was Replaced.
I wonder:
1) How long should i let my car Idle for?
2) I will be making sure my Oil is topped off.. Im also making sure Coolant is too, i know i "Add" this with the car running, into the Expansion tank. — NO MORE SMOKE OR BUBBLES AND ALL THAT NASTY BLOWN HEAD GASKET STUFF!! YES!!
3) Someone said I should wipe the Oil Cap to get all the Remnants of the Oil out..
What im wondering is: 4) After one or two SHORT 500 Mile OCI (Oil Change intervals) including Highway Trips to heat it up and all.. Should i use a Flush, liek SeaFoam or a Motor Flush to ALL THE WAY get rid of ANY Milkshake Remnant?
Car DID have blown head Gasket.. Head i took out had crack between Cylinders 2 and 3.
Thanks for the Suggestions…
1991 Olds Calais 2.5L "Iron Duke" Tech4 182,000 Miles
1989 Pontiac Grand Am 2.5L "Iron Duke" Head.. Unknown Mileage.
NEW Gaskets, Spark Plugs, Wires, Accompanyingf Gaskets.. Black RTV Silicone was used as well on Valve Cover by mechanics.
1. Fan to cool off engine is being ran by a switch mounted by the steering wheel with the use of a 20amp fuse which is connected to the battery. Tried everything to make it run automatically but even the General Motors (since Saturn division is gone) Dealership mechanics couldn’t find a solution either.
2. Same for the radio, It’s hardwired to the battery as well. Fuse is just fine. Same thing, Mechanics couldn’t figure the problem out either.
3. Even after a complete radiator flush and cleared off at debris from the radiator, it still runs warm and gets hot quick. Replaced Temp Gauge as well.
4. The AC blows warm, and not cold. AC compressor works just fine. Not sure what it is.
5. The Brakes…..It’s not the calipers, It’s not the brake shoes, it’s not the brakes itself, no leaks in the brake master cylinder, recent brake bleed and new Brake booster installed…..and it STILL does not stop unless a lot of pressure is pushed on the brakes.
6. Odometer and Tripometer are broken. Died at 146,100. Not sure how to fix that without messing it up.
7. For a manual transmission, It has a hard time down shifting from second to first.
8. Feel like it’s burning more gas lately no matter how lightly and gentle I drive it. I have always filled it up with Chevron/76/Mobile/Shell (The good gasoline) Regular 87 Octane gas, I use Valvoline 10W-30 synthetic blend oil as always, Tires are properly inflated and I keep very little in the car so it’s not the weight. I use high grade, semi-expensive fluids and oils. Also, There’s no vacuum leaks either.
9. Vibrates really bad when it first starts. It’s not the motor mounts either.
10.Seems like it "Revs" kinda high once it goes past 2500RPM which is not even normal for a stick shift. Usually it "Revs" high after around 3200RPM for most 4cyl engines.
11. Brand new Battery installed in Feb and it died 2 months later. Left me stranded in a parking lot. Probably due to the cheap 50watt stereo and 20amp fan being ran off it.
I’m mechanically inclined and know how to properly take care of my own vehicle, but I thought I’d come here to find out what’s wrong with these problems and what solutions are out there since I can’t find any.
Your input will help and be appreciated.
-Thank you.
1. Fan to cool off engine is being ran by a switch mounted by the steering wheel with the use of a 20amp fuse which is connected to the battery. Tried everything to make it run automatically but even the General Motors (since Saturn division is gone) Dealership mechanics couldn’t find a solution either.
2. Same for the radio, It’s hardwired to the battery as well. Fuse is just fine. Same thing, Mechanics couldn’t figure the problem out either.
3. Even after a complete radiator flush and cleared off at debris from the radiator, it still runs warm and gets hot quick. Replaced Temp Gauge as well.
4. The AC blows warm, and not cold. AC compressor works just fine. Not sure what it is.
5. The Brakes…..It’s not the calipers, It’s not the brake shoes, it’s not the brakes itself, no leaks in the brake master cylinder, recent brake bleed and new Brake booster installed…..and it STILL does not stop unless a lot of pressure is pushed on the brakes.
6. Odometer and Tripometer are broken. Died at 146,100. Not sure how to fix that without messing it up.
7. For a manual transmission, It has a hard time down shifting from second to first.
8. Feel like it’s burning more gas lately no matter how lightly and gentle I drive it. I have always filled it up with Chevron/76/Mobile/Shell (The good gasoline) Regular 87 Octane gas, I use Valvoline 10W-30 synthetic blend oil as always, Tires are properly inflated and I keep very little in the car so it’s not the weight. I use high grade, semi-expensive fluids and oils. Also, There’s no vacuum leaks either.
9. Vibrates really bad when it first starts. It’s not the motor mounts either.
10.Seems like it "Revs" kinda high once it goes past 2500RPM which is not even normal for a stick shift. Usually it "Revs" high after around 3200RPM for most 4cyl engines.
11. Brand new Battery installed in Feb and it died 2 months later. Left me stranded in a parking lot. Probably due to the cheap 50watt stereo and 20amp fan being ran off it.
I’m mechanically inclined and know how to properly take care of my own vehicle, but I thought I’d come here to find out what’s wrong with these problems and what solutions are out there since I can’t find any.
Your input will help and be appreciated.
-Thank you.
1. Fan to cool off engine is being ran by a switch mounted by the steering wheel with the use of a 20amp fuse which is connected to the battery. Tried everything to make it run automatically but even the Saturn Dealership mechanics couldn’t find a solution either.
2. Same for the radio, It’s hardwired to the battery as well. Fuse is just fine. Same thing, Mechanics couldn’t figure the problem out either.
3. Even after a complete radiator flush and cleared off at debris from the radiator, it still runs warm and gets hot quick. Replaced Temp Gauge as well.
4. The AC blows warm, and not cold. AC compressor works just fine. Not sure what it is.
5. The Brakes…..It’s not the calipers, It’s not the brake shoes, it’s not the brakes itself, no leaks in the brake master cylinder, recent brake bleed and new Brake booster installed…..and it STILL does not stop unless a lot of pressure is pushed on the brakes.
6. Odometer and Tripometer are broken. Died at 146,100. Not sure how to fix that without messing it up.
7. For a manual transmission, It has a hard time down shifting from second to first.
8. Feel like it’s burning more gas lately no matter how lightly and gentle I drive it. I have always filled it up with Chevron/76/Mobile/Shell (The good gasoline) Regular 87 Octane gas, I use Valvoline 10W-30 synthetic blend oil as always, Tires are properly inflated and I keep very little in the car so it’s not the weight. I use high grade, semi-expensive fluids and oils. Also, There’s no vacuum leaks either.
9. Vibrates really bad when it first starts. It’s not the motor mounts either.
10.Seems like it "Revs" kinda high once it goes past 2500RPM which is not even normal for a stick shift. Usually it "Revs" high after around 3200RPM for most 4cyl engines.
11. Brand new Battery installed in Feb and it died 2 months later. Left me stranded in a parking lot. Probably due to the cheap 50watt stereo and 20amp fan being ran off it.
I’m mechanically inclined and know how to properly take care of my own vehicle, but I thought I’d come here to find out what’s wrong with these problems and what solutions are out there since I can’t find any.
Your input will help and be appreciated.
-Thank you.
Not Saturn dealership, General Motors Dealership.
I have a 1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200S, and have always used motul 5100 synthetic blend oil for it since day one. Was recently considering switching to motul full synthetic, but when i questioned the dealer if he could order me some, i was informed that i wouldn’t want to do that, and that it would ruin my clutch within 300 miles. Is there any truth to what i was told or was the guy full of it? I cant imagine how it could be anything but better than the synthetic blend, especially if it is formulated specifically for a "wet clutch" system on a motorcycle. Anyone with any experience with this kind of oil and what the heck the guy was talking about? thanks!
I switched from synthetic blend oil to full synthetic in my 2002 Mustang. I now have an odd noise coming from my engine whenever I start the car in the mornings. It’s kind of a whining noise and every time it makes the noise it tries to die. I have to rev the motor each time it makes the noise to keep it running. After about 30 seconds it is fine. Any ideas?
Belt is good, and all fluids are good. It only does this when it is very cold outside.
I am reading about Valvoline VR1 "Racing" Oil, "The Way Oil Used to be.." Says Valvoline MaxLife has No EXTRA ZDDP, and that Castrol GTX High Mileage Has NO ZDDP in it.
So: 1) WHAT is "ZDDP," 2) Is it GOOD or BAD for an ENGINE, and 3) I have a 1991 Olds Calais 2.5L "Iron Duke" with 179,000 miles ive been using the CONVENTIONAL Valvoline MaxLife "Synthetic Blend" 10W-3o and 5W-30 gonna switch to Full Synth Version at 5W-30.. IS THAT GOOD OR BAD!? It was ranked 3ND to Castol, but had to do with ZDDP.. What is ZDDP?
Resources
I bought a ’94 camry from a mechanic not to long ago and it’s almost time to do an oil change on it. Oil cap says use 5w30, but he says to use 10w40 synthetic blend. The car has over 185k miles on it.
He says he’s been using that oil on it for over 2 years. (Cars a beater, but I got it for 0)
Resources
What’s the Right Oil for Your Engine?
Click the Book Image for more information.
