Answering abqdoubleg ‘s question about oil changes and the frequency of “regular” oil vs. synthetic oil. Thank you for your question, Gigi

Watch how Mobil 1‘s proprietary oil technology provides maximum engine performance, outstanding wear protection, and keeps Mercedes-Benz engines performing like new — making Mobil 1 the recommended brand of oil. Join the conversation: www.facebook.com

I drive a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu LS (3.1L V6) with an automatic transmission.
I purchased the car used with 55K miles on it in October of 2006.
Four months after purchasing the vehicle, I was informed that coolant was leaking into my oil as a result of a faulty intake manifold gasket (a disturbingly common issue with this engine) by a mechanic after an oil change . With this, they informed me of an expensive repair that should be an absolute priority. This particular mechanic told me that I’d be pushing it if I waited any longer than "two weeks".
Five years later, I have put 100k additional miles on the engine and have yet to take care of the intake manifold gasket leak issue.
I can say that I am NOT hard on this vehicle and am very good about taking care of its regular maintenance. For the past few years, I have been strictly using MobilOne’s Extended Performance 5W-30 oil and Mobile One oil filters. Each time that I change my oil (every 3,000 – 4,500 miles) I have WalMart perform their Fuel Injection Service (though they’ve recently informed me that I shouldn’t bother doing this more than once a year). Additionally, because of the leak, I have to routinely add DexCool pre-diluted coolant to the car’s coolant reservoir.
Now that the car is ten years and 155,000 miles old, is it worth having the repairs done? Is my car a ticking time bomb of expensive repairs? Or am I doing something right in my regular maintenance and shouldn’t worry about it as long as I keep up with it?

Thanks for reading. Any opinion/advice will be helpful.

-Brandon

so here it is, a 1999 ford expedition with almost 200,000 miles on it, it runs smooth and l love the truck, but problem is it makes this tapping noise on cold start for like 5 or 10mins, after talking to some mechanics I was told it could be the lifters or the exhaust manifold, SO I bought all new lifters and got them installed and the next day the tapping noise was still there so I took it to a guy that works on exhaust and mufflers and he looked at my exhaust manifold and eve tho it had hair line crack on it he told me its not the exhaust manifold making that noise and told me to go back to whoever put the lifters in it and ask them why its still making noise, I’m lost if its not the exhaust and got new lifters then WHY IS IT STILL MAKING TAPPING NOISE???? Could it be because I didn’t get the motorcraft brand lifters? Or maybe the cam is worn out? The mechanic said it was worn out but he didn’t sound like it was that bad, or is the guy that works on exhaust wrong? Because the mechanic that put the lifters in told me to put my hand under the exhaust manifold and I felt hot air escaping or could it be the timing belt or chain and if it is wouldn’t it make that noise all the time instead of for only 10mins? And I have some mechanics told me not to even worry about it because most ford trucks do that when they get that many miles and it was nothing to worry about at all. so what do y’all think????
Ps. By the way I tried lucas oil treatment and anti-drainback filters.
the engine is 4.6L
yes the lifters were soaked in oil for 24hrs, and i was told by the mechanic that it didnt have a rocker and the cams just snapped on.
is it time to buy rebuilt engine? or can i drive this one for another 100,000miles? other than the tapping noise it drives smooth and don’t lose power and shifts smoothly.

so here it is, a 1999 ford expedition with almost 200,000 miles on it, it runs smooth and l love the truck, but problem is it makes this tapping noise on cold start for like 5 or 10mins, after talking to some mechanics I was told it could be the lifters or the exhaust manifold, SO I bought all new lifters and got them installed and the next day the tapping noise was still there so I took it to a guy that works on exhaust and mufflers and he looked at my exhaust manifold and eve tho it had hair line crack on it he told me its not the exhaust manifold making tht noise and told me to go back to whoever put the lifters in it and ask them why its still making noise, I’m lost if its not the exhaust and got new lifters then WHY IS IT STILL MAKING TAPPING NOISE???? Could it be because I didn’t get the motorcraft brand lifters? Or maybe the cam is worn out? The mechanic said it was worn out but he didn’t sound like it was tht bad, or is the guy tht works on exhaust wrong? Because the mechanic tht put the lifters in told me to put my hand under the exhaust manifold and I felt hot air escaping or could it be the timing belt or chain and if it is wouldn’t it make tht noise all the time instead of for only 10mins? And I have some mechanics told me not to even worry about it because most ford trucks do that when they get tht many miles and it was nothin to worry about at all. so what do y’all think????
Ps. By the way I tried lucas oil treatment and anti-drainback filters.
it is 4.6L

Also includes talk about synthetic oil and the amount of time between oil changes with regular oil vs. synthetic oil. If you need more in depth information, please ask and we can do a Q&A video for you with your questions. Thank you so much for subscribing and watching!

Short video on how to change the oil in a 2001 Volvo S80. Good tips and listing of tools required. Enjoy and don’t forget to comment.

i have a 1987 chevy caprice with 84,000miles and i just wanted to know if a oil pump screen gets clogged can cause the engine to die out? because i was driving one day doin 45mph and the car just turned off on me like somethin got clogged? i took the car to a mechanic he said everything looked fine to him battery was charging,alternator was fine,car started up right away,etc…about 2 months ago i had mobile do a oil system cleaner on it so i was thinkin maybe that caused my oil pump screen to get clogged and makin my car turn off? or it can be a clogged fuel filter and bad pcv?

A couple laughs with Dave his new project engine. Stay tuned to see the finished mystery project. Dave explains and shows how a centrifugal clutch works in the vid.

**Always follow the instructions in your repair manual when doing repair or maintenance work on a motorcycle. Manuals can be found at the dealer and online.** Since 1994 Rokon motorcycles have been sold with 4 stroke engines. In 1994 Rokon introduced the Honda GX160 engine, and in 1999 the Kohler Command CS6. Both engines are 4 strokes, and have a splash type lubrication system, which limits the angle at which the engine can operate and the lubrication system still function the way it was designed. Rokon recommends never exceeding a 60 percent grade for both engines, which is equal to about 31 degrees. Kohler recommends never exceeding 35 degrees for intermittent operation and 20 degrees for continuous operation.

and the response was since the car has 143K miles on it, the cam and lifters always make a little noise, and may need to be replaced down the road. The car has always run great, and doesnt smoke either from the exhaust or the oil filler cap. The ticking noise only happens when it idles. When running at any rpm above idle, the noise goes away. I have the car for sale locally for 00, bottom dollar. A guy (a mechanic, he says), come and looked at the car this evening, insists the noise is the "wrist pins", because he knows. He offered me 0 for the car, since, according to him it needs serious motor work. My response was as far as i know it may be the "cam and lifters". I told him, "Why would you want to buy any car for 0, if it needed all that work?" The car is virtually perfect otherwise, i have maintained it very well. Was he pulling my leg? How would i know for sure if the "wrist pins" were bad? Thank you in advance….

Ok, I will try to be as short as possible, but at the same time, describing the problem in detail. Have a 2008 Scion TC (bought it new) in January 08. The car has 76,000 miles on it. My mechanic tells me that it’s burning oil. In fact, 300 miles before I was due for an oil change, there was practically no oil present. I know this is not a good sign, and I’m kind of surprised to hear the news from my mechanic (also my good friend), that my motor may be deteriorating. So I’ve been adding oil lately, making sure that the dipstick level doesn’t get too low. Checking it every week or two. I don’t know much about cars and I don’t really make enough money to be able to afford a new motor or something of drastic measurements. Not under powertrain warranty. Went at 56,000 miles, while I still was under warranty and they told me it was burning oil but ‘not enough to require work done’. Never seen any leaks under my car after I leave my spot/driveway/whatever. So my questions are:

1)Is burning oil ALWAYS signify a problem/bad thing?
2)What can I do to prolong a serious job done in a shop for a few months, so I can save the money I need to pay for a motor if that is the case? Anything I can buy in stores that may be able to help?
3)Is it rare for a Scion (toyota made) to have motor problems at 76,000 miles?
4)What do you suggest I do? How much would a motor be?

Thanks. Sorry this was so long. I don’t know much about cars and I don’t really have anyone that could tell me personally what to do (other than mechanic that I don’t really know). I just don’t want to get ripped off and pay thousands of dollars that I saved up if it’s unncessary. Idk

Thanks again.
Meant to say ‘from my mechanic (not really a good friend) in the first paragraph.

OK my car was at our local mechanic getting a new clutch, and my check engine light was on as well. I told him to fix it. I just checked my voicemail right now, and turns out my engine oil was dirty/low. So he gave me an oil change free of charge, but used regular oil.

I prepaid for my clutch, so my car is ready to pick up later. How dangerous is it to drive it if the oil is being switched from synthetic to regular? Should I take it tomorrow to get it switched back to synthetic?

It’s a 2000 Honda Accord 2.3L 5-speed manual.

Hi I recently bought a recreational motor scooter from my friend i got to use it for about 10 minutes then the back tire blew so i fixed that and it worked fine for another 10 minutes … it wouldn’t start so i took it over to my uncles because hes a mechanic and was told to order a spark plug and corroborator "the corroborator didn’t appear to be pumping gas into the engine" I installed the new parts and it’s still not starting so i figured it could be because i used marine 2 stroke oil instead of scooter 2 stroke?

**Always follow the instructions in your repair manual when doing repair or maintenance work on a motorcycle. Manuals can be found at the dealer and online.** This video explains how to change the engine oil and oil filter on a 2009 Harley Davidson Softail. I replaced the used engine oil with Genuine 20W-50 Harley Davidson Motorcycle oil and the the new oil filter is OEM. Always use oil formulated for motorcycles when changing your motorcycle oil. Thanks for watching! Tools Used: -5/8″ Socket for engine oil drain plug -End Cap Oil Filter Wrench -Torque Wrench Specifications: – Engine oil drain plug should be tightened to 14-21 ft.-lbs – Engine oil filter should be turned 3/4-1 turn after the filter seats against the engine – Used Genuine Harley Davidson 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil