This video will show the installation of the oil cooler, then Intake manifold with the EGR cooler. Then I teardow the turbo and find it worn out.

www.4wheelparts.com – Rex from 4 Wheel Parts Orlando showcases that 4 Wheel Parts does oil changes and differential fluid changes with Royal Purple, one of the finest fluids on the market. Increase your towing capabilities and extend the life of your vehicle by regularly getting an oil change and differential fluid change. Get these great Royal Purple products for your personal project at www.4WheelParts.com.

I have distilled water,50/50 pre mix 12qts coolant and some bottle of Prestone flush stuff.I think it’s a 16oz bottle.Distilled water to flush is ok to mix with that flush additive.Right?

I recently had my twin garret turbos rebuilt and the entire engine rebuilt. both only have about 3000k miles on them. All ran perfect until I was racing and accidentally missed a gear (revved up to 7500rpm) and immediately let of the gas. 6000rpm is when i shift and the max rpm tach goes up to 8k. after that i notice when i get into my boost or pick up hard it blows white smoke and then dissipates when i drive normal on the highway or rd. and when i pick up hard then stop for a light it will roll smoke and then stop after like 30sec. basically when i get on it it smokes and when im cruising its fine. if i rev it in neautral no smoke comes out. only when im in gear getting on it happens. the oil and antifreeze coolant is full and consumption is normal. i dint see any leaks. no bubbles in my radiator when i cold start the engine to test for blown head gasket. color of oil looks fine. engine temp and water temp never over heat. oil to the turbos have already been restricted before and was perfect. what the hell is going on. its a brand new motor and i dont have symptoms of a cracked head gasket. its a tricky situation, car runs fine; no power lose or no bogging down, but smoks still i use 93 octane. ideas???

Heres a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=5_DYrOSoCz0

and its a 1984 Honda CR 125 R

Is grey oil normal? I bought it from a person and not sure when is the last time it was changed. Maybe coolant is leaking into the motor? All answers appreciated

Heres a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_profilepage&v=5_DYrOSoCz0

and its a 1984 Honda CR 125 R

Is grey oil normal? I bought it from a person and not sure when is the last time it was changed. Maybe coolant is leaking into the motor? All answers appreciated

I have a friend who is starting his own mobile mechanic business. He is aware of some of the license, etc that is required however, he wants to know about a disposable permit (for coolant, oil,etc.). Does the state of Texas require one and if so how do you obtain one? He lives in Houston,TX.

Hello
I have a 2002 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8L Turbocharged.
Heres the situation.
I drive it around for a while and when I open the motor oil cap where you pour in the motor oil, smoke comes out of it. The engine temperature is low and my coolant is filled. I also checked that I have enough motor oil in it. Can it be the turbo? If so, is that a sign that my turbo is running out?
Thanks

So I didmy first oil change on my brand new bike. Do the other fluids like coolant need to be changed as well? Does it get shavings like the oil from a new engine?

I know.. the Goal is to get AS MUCh of my "Milkshake Oil" out as possible.

Someone suggested i Change the Oil in 500 Miles. I will do this. Valvoline Synthetic Blend MaxLife 5W-30 has been settled upon for my car. Oil Filter Was Replaced.

I wonder:

1) How long should i let my car Idle for?
2) I will be making sure my Oil is topped off.. Im also making sure Coolant is too, i know i "Add" this with the car running, into the Expansion tank. — NO MORE SMOKE OR BUBBLES AND ALL THAT NASTY BLOWN HEAD GASKET STUFF!! YES!!
3) Someone said I should wipe the Oil Cap to get all the Remnants of the Oil out..

What im wondering is: 4) After one or two SHORT 500 Mile OCI (Oil Change intervals) including Highway Trips to heat it up and all.. Should i use a Flush, liek SeaFoam or a Motor Flush to ALL THE WAY get rid of ANY Milkshake Remnant?

Car DID have blown head Gasket.. Head i took out had crack between Cylinders 2 and 3.

Thanks for the Suggestions…

1991 Olds Calais 2.5L "Iron Duke" Tech4 182,000 Miles
1989 Pontiac Grand Am 2.5L "Iron Duke" Head.. Unknown Mileage.
NEW Gaskets, Spark Plugs, Wires, Accompanyingf Gaskets.. Black RTV Silicone was used as well on Valve Cover by mechanics.

Okay I am stumped. I had a loping idle before that I couldn’t get rid of, and was able to take care of it. Now I have a new set of problems that I’m not really able to think through. Tonight I finished putting the motor back together and the loping idle was gone but I was getting a bit of smoke coming up from in between the motor and the fire wall, it would die when it would get hot, it would die when I would come to a stop, and I would get smoke out of the dip stick tube when I took it out. I have plenty of oil pressure, the oil isn’t foamy or milky, I’m not getting smoke from the exhaust, the timing is just fine, and I don’t have any vacuum leaks. I’m thinking that it can’t be the head gasket because I’m not getting coolant into the oil. It can’t be blow by because I’m not getting a bunch of smoke from the exhaust, It’s not the cams because it doesn’t want to die when it’s cold. It’s not the valve seals because they are brand spanking new. I think I might be losing compression somewhere, but I have no Idea how since I had the valve seats ground. This is driving me bananas.
It’s a 3L V6 that’s fuel injected. Its not the fuel system I’m sure, and I have spark.
The heads and everything else are most definitely torqued down to spec. The space is too tight for a mirror to see and most of the back of the motor is eclipsed by heat shield. I was thinking since the rings haven’t really seated yet, but I got a mile down the road and was doing 40 miles an hour at 2k RPM when the engine died and refused to start. I did stagger the compression rings but they could have shifted a small amount with the ring compressor. Since it died it is also cranking rather slow which leads me to believe that the motor is trying to lock up. I didn’t change the camshaft bearings as they were fine, I fully primed the motor before starting, the battery is fine, and there isn’t a problem with the starter.

Chris Duke from Motorz TV www.motorz.tv shows you how change all the fluids in your vehicle including motor and gear oil, transmission fluid, coolant, and more. Show notes www.motorz.tv Website: www.motorz.tv Facebook: www.facebook.com Twitter: twitter.com

havent road my 2006 YZ125 this year. i put it back together after a pretty bad crash (front end mostly) a couple months ago i put a gallon of gas/oil mix just to fire it up and run for a few minutes to check for coolant leaks. ran fine no problems that i can see. yesterday i went to fire it up for a friend to hear and i noticed a strange feel when i went to kick it over it was like the clutch was catching or something a very slight grinding feeling felt through the kickstart lever and i could hear something that sounded like sand on metal contact kind of grinding sound and the kick didnt act right. i changed the trans oil before i fired it the last time. i use torco oil 80w 600cm and a little bit extra. my fuel is premium pump with torco synthetic (purple) oil mixed about 38:1 maybe a touch heavier. normaly when i run the bike and park it it will leak a little bit of black oil out that vent tube, lots of dripping from here, whats this about? is it just build up?
33 minutes ago – 3 days left to answer.
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2 minutes ago

goes into nuetral fine and doesnt try to roll when i rev the motor. is there any way for water coolant to get in that port on the front of the cylinder where that vent tube comes from? and what is that box or port all about? can coolant get in the trans oil from internal seal problems? the black exuast oil that drips from that tube looked grayish like it had water in it, then after a few minutes it was black again. never seen it leak that much before, maybe i got water up there accidently when hosing the bike off? would that loosen up all that crud and cause it to leak that much exuast oil? also the silencer had it dripping out from the end too.

I bought a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.4 L with 88,000 miles about a month ago from a private seller. Since then I have changed the oil and used Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W40 fully synthetic oil (I live in Texas so it gets really hot, thus the 10W40), put a new oil filter, changed spark plugs, spark plug seals, valve cover gasket, water pump belt, timing belt, got a new battery, got a new radiator, did a full coolant flush and put new coolant in.

This is all I have done so far. Do you think this should be good for now or is there anything else I should do for a car this mileage? I checked the Air filter and it looked okay, there wasnt a whole bunch of dirt in it, but I’ll probably change it within a year anyway. I also bought a new thermostat just in case.

So is this okay?

also My mechanic said I will need to change the wheel bearings in the back tires because the car makes a wobbling noise when driving at high speeds, but he said I could do it in a few weeks. How bad can it be to wait a few weeks to change wheel bearings? I cant afford to change them right now.

Thanks

I did an oil change today because my rebuilt LT1 motor hit about 3,000 miles so I wanted to change from conventional oil to synthetic. my LAST oil change was just last week too. But I did it and noticed that when I let the oil drain….there was oil coming out and leaking underneath was some kind of waterly liquid which I ASSUMED is coolant…It wasnt much but it was noticable coming out…just kind of dripping underneath the oil that was coming out.

So looks like I have coolant getting inside the car and also i noticed in the past FEW days that my car’s oil temp would take quite a bit longer to get up to regular operating temp. Before it would only take about 5 minutes to get up to 200 degrees but it was taking 15-20 minutes. I had to do some spirited driving to get it up to regular temp. I thought my oil sensor was bad but was told this is a symptom of possible coolant getting mixed with the oil.

After doing an oil change today…i notice the oil temp went back to normal.
so my question is what to do now? is a shop suppose to take the heads off to possibly fix this situation?

Can I change the oil every few days in case I cant get the car to the mechanic this week?
My car does come with a Oil Pressure gauge and Oil Temp gauge…its digital though.

Acutally my oil pan bolt is on the side…so it seemed after taking it off that both the oil and water were fighting to get out…but yea water was leaking underneath while the oil was just flowing out.