Mobile 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Castrol, Eneos, Quaker State
I have a BMW 2001 325i, and it was working perfectly till I got an oil change a couple of days ago. From the very first second, after the oil change I could feel the clutch slippage and now I’m wondering how I can fix it!
The new oil I used is : Castrol Syntec.
Any help is much appreciated!
I have a 2 stroke 1981Yamaha dt100. It is oil injection so i was thinking of using any synthetic 2-stroke oil for the injection system. Is there any specific kind you would recommend? I was also wondering what to put in for the gearbox/ wet clutch. I was thinking of just putting in standard automobile oil but i don’t know what kind is the best, or if it is bad for the wet clutch system and make it slip. Please let me know what i should do.
Ok everyone the site is 2 for 2 with some excellent answers so here is a new one. I have heard the following recommendations some my own… synthetic blend / straight weight oil / and standard grade 20-50 which is in it now. I go against straight synthetic for this bike as I believe oil devoid of paraffin and this motor would not do well together as the motor has no idea that synthetic oil even exists. I am looking for a cooler motor / better shifting and easier clutch pull when the bike is hot.
Thanks!
i used to buy the .99 synthetic motorcycle specific oil, i was told using regular car oil wouldnt hurt my bike. the same oil is used for transmission, clutch and engine. should i use the motorcycle specific or will i be fine with the cheaper oil. my manual says to use 10w30 i figure using 15w40 would be thicker and since i dont start the bike in cold weather it wouldnt matter.
i work with a bunch of guys who ride, they said bikes used to run on thicker oil, i assumed it would work and give better lubrication but in cold weather the bike might not start. i dont think using the thicker oil will hurt the bike?
i also read this. it says using 15w40 is fine….. scroll to the bottom there is a list of oils. i am currently using the Delvec 15w40
http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
So i have a 1995 yamaha fzr 1000 exup and i am just about to go through with an oil/filter change. The bike has about 43,000 miles on it so i figured i should go through and do all of the regular maitnence seeing as how i just bought the bike. So i picked up 10w40 vavoline max life synthetic oil which is made for higher mileage cars so i figured it would work the same on my bike. I noticed that some people have been saying that you can’t buy automotive oils with friction modifiers in them because it will ruin your clutch plates but i looked around and well…just about every oil had some sort of modifier in it. I’m doing everything tomorrow so i was hoping someone with a little more information could help me out with this
My fuel pressure regulator has been slowly dying on me since I bought my CBR 1800 miles ago… although the problem got much more severe as time passed. This caused the bike to run extremely rich and gas to leak into the oil, among other things. I have replaced the regulator and the bike is running well again, but I am still wondering what kind of damage might have been done to the bike!
I just changed the oil 300 miles ago, and when I changed the regulator the oil reeked of gasoline. It is possible that I have been riding with some amount of gas in the oil for up to 2,000 miles? This bike has a "wet" clutch, so the transmission is also bathed in the engine oil.
I have a 2004 Yamaha R6. Bought it a few months ago and the previous seller had it done at a dealer so he has no idea what oil was in it before rather than knowing it was fully synthetic. It’s about 90 degrees during the days now and it usually stays at around 110 for like 4 months lol. I like it. But anyway, getting my bike ready for it’s first summer. Having it be hot, what’s a good oil to use. I’m debating whether to go with Yamalube full synthetic or Amsoil full synthetic. But I’ll decide soon. But from a good friend of mine, he had a gsx-r and when he used a light 10W-40, his valves and clutch became louder so I wanna keep mine quiet and I hear a thicker oil will be better and help prevent that.
So I’m thinking fully synthetic 10W-50? Especially for a really hot summer and I am going to be doing a lot of riding – especially freeway. Taking it on a 5 hour trip to Vegas in about a month.
I ride a 1984 honda magna 700 (wet clutch) and am considering switching to synthetic oil, thought I might try shell rotella-T, which is not a motorcycle specific oil. I am mainly considering this because the engine knocks until the oil gets warmed, about the first 5 minutes, and most of my rides aren’t much longer than this. Anyone with experience riding with synthetic? Is this a good idea?
I have a 2002 Ford mustang GT 4.6L V8 2V SOHC 5 Speed Manual 60,000 Miles. Daily driver and weekend warrior. The owners manual say to use 5w20. I live in Houston TX. The car have the following MODS BBK Cool air intake Trick Flow 70mm throttle body Trick Flow upper plenum BBK under drive pulley kit BBK Long tubes Headers BBK off road X pipe Flow master American thunder cat back sistem Spec stage 1 clutch and pressure plate kit 3.73 Ford Racing rear end SCT programmer Chip and it is Dyno tune 93 Octane.Currently I am running Royal purple Full synthetic on the rear end , transmission , 5w20 on motor and regular Motorcraft Oil filter.Should I change to 10w20 or 5w30 or 10w30? What about the filter? Does it mater what kind of filter I use?
I have an 08′ GSX-R1000 with about 2,600 miles on it. I’ve been reading into this for quite some time now & haven’t been able to come to a conclusion due to a lot opinions about synthetic oils causing clutch problems. A few reviews said that if the bike has under 9,000 miles on it then synthetic would be a mistake because of the clutch problems, but should be used after the 9,000 mile mark for longer engine life. I live in northeastern Ohio if that helps. Should I stick to non synthetics, semi or just go fully synthetic?
Please let me know what you guys think. It will be much appreciated.
Thanks
