Ok, I will try to be as short as possible, but at the same time, describing the problem in detail. Have a 2008 Scion TC (bought it new) in January 08. The car has 76,000 miles on it. My mechanic tells me that it’s burning oil. In fact, 300 miles before I was due for an oil change, there was practically no oil present. I know this is not a good sign, and I’m kind of surprised to hear the news from my mechanic (also my good friend), that my motor may be deteriorating. So I’ve been adding oil lately, making sure that the dipstick level doesn’t get too low. Checking it every week or two. I don’t know much about cars and I don’t really make enough money to be able to afford a new motor or something of drastic measurements. Not under powertrain warranty. Went at 56,000 miles, while I still was under warranty and they told me it was burning oil but ‘not enough to require work done’. Never seen any leaks under my car after I leave my spot/driveway/whatever. So my questions are:

1)Is burning oil ALWAYS signify a problem/bad thing?
2)What can I do to prolong a serious job done in a shop for a few months, so I can save the money I need to pay for a motor if that is the case? Anything I can buy in stores that may be able to help?
3)Is it rare for a Scion (toyota made) to have motor problems at 76,000 miles?
4)What do you suggest I do? How much would a motor be?

Thanks. Sorry this was so long. I don’t know much about cars and I don’t really have anyone that could tell me personally what to do (other than mechanic that I don’t really know). I just don’t want to get ripped off and pay thousands of dollars that I saved up if it’s unncessary. Idk

Thanks again.
Meant to say ‘from my mechanic (not really a good friend) in the first paragraph.

How long can synthetic motor oil be in a car engine before changing it, I heard salesmen of the stuff say up to a year or more.
Of course the car manuals refer to regular oil to be changed at 7,500 or so on my cars.

i bought the car with nothing wrong with it its turbo 5 speed it drove so amazingly it didnt even grind in 3rd like a lot of them seem to do… some 50 year old guy had it sitting in the road and i offered him 1000 for it and he took it…. the next day it started over heating i put new antifreeze and a thermostat in and worked great then 2 days later i went to start it and it sputtered knowing about these cars i stopped cranking it popped the timing belt cover and belt was loose so i towed it home and when i found out i had a rebuilt motor an a rebuilt head 100% rebuilt i almost killed some on cause on a brand new motor almost all the valves were bent….. anyways got it apart bad tentsioner so i bought a good head from my friend had it cleaned and oiled when we put it on (and we did everyting by the book with a new gasket kit timing belt kit and head bolts) timed it a few times but got it right and after a few cranks and a little starter fluid it ran drove it home (30 miles from friends house) the exhaust manifold was glowing red think cause bad gasket between manifold and turbo housing, but not sure when we first started it had bad turbo lag cause that bad gasket but got that replaced and still over heats and the next morning had a tick i dont think its a rod knok but idk my friend says he wants to time it again and we havded to adjust the Cam angle censor…
if you need anymore info just ask but i need your opinion does it need timed? maybe bad CAS? can being out of time cause it to over heat? or the tick noise?

Evinrude running clean on Amsoil Saber 100:1 oil. See my ETEC video @ www.youtube.com . For 79 Evinrude rebuild details or product info visit Tech Talk @ www.premiumsyntheticmotoroil.com Go to my website to learn more about Amsoil products and programs. I explain how anyone can purchase Amsoil products at wholesale or become a dealer. In my Tech Forum I’ve been writing about outboards, and autos relative to lubrication along with new products for specific applications. I’ve loaded new articles related to Etec issues relative to oil and recent developments regarding HP Injector oil with the new Evinrudes in my Tech Forum. Protect your investment with Amsoil’s Saber or HP Injector oils. REMEMBER THIS – An oil that meets a specification simply means it can legally be marketed and sold under the TCW3 specification because it meets the minimum requirements…read what those requirements are and I think you’ll be surprised…not hard to achieve and might explain why there is so much low performing oil in the marketplace. Go for a product that exceeds a specification in all categories…Amsoil HPI and Saber Outboard are 2 products that will do that. They will perform over time with minimal wear and minimal deposits…well beyond TC-W3 requirements. Go to my website and review the Amsoil Product Test Results through the online store, and if you have any questions send’em my way.

Part 5. Out of Santander on the N roads for about 270. Stopped at a place called Malanquilla. Good food Good value. Also used up most of my oil

I have 97 Nissan Altima I bought a year ago, when I got it I put 10w-30 in it without giving any thought to it and have change the oil with 10w 30 every 3 months since. I just recently found out my cars manual says to put 5w-30 in it, and the manual puts extra emphasis on ONLY. Does putting 10w-30 in it effect anything, a friend of mine said hot or cold weather should dictate what oil to use? Have I shortened the life of the engine or should I be fine?

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It is a short trip daily driver. I use synthetic oil and add good oil additives. The exhaust does not blow smoke like white or blue or black, but there is a collection of soot that easily washes off. The car has only 60,000k miles and is and ’05. (not ultra low miles, HaHa.) I sounds like a diesel and stammers from the take off from a complete stop. It used to not lose oil at all. I would like to know where it goes? The cooling fan does not come on unless the A/C is on as well. I know that these cars are controlled mainly by their ECU. I want the performance I deserve and I don’t know what to do.

A short video compliation of videos of my 03 Saleen on the dyno at GTR High Performance in Rancho Cucamonga, California. Filmed on location November 25th, 2010. Car had new NGK plugs, Bassani catted x-pipe, torco synthetic oil, torco synthetic gear oil, valvoline synthetic transmission fluid, and torco limited slip additive installed and changed. Gained +17rwhp and +17rwtq.

Tdizzy and I took a short trip south of Austin to check out a backyard track. While filming the first portion of the video I jumped over the remote control nitro buggy. You can see it at the end of the video. en.wikipedia.org Radio-controlled (or RC) cars are usually categorized as either “toy” or “hobby” grade. Remote control vehicles are usually of one of two types: control of a vehicle by radio transmission or by a wire connecting between the transmitter and car. This article focuses on the radio-controlled vehicle category, both toy and hobby grades. Cars are powered by various sources. Electric rc cars are powered by small but powerful electric motors and rechargeable nickel-cadmium, nickel metal hydride, or lithium polymer cells. There are also brushed or brushless electric motors. Most fuel-powered models use glow plug engines, small internal combustion engines fueled by a special mixture of nitromethane, methanol, and oil (in most cases a blend of castor oil and synthetic oil). These are referred to as “nitro” rc cars. Recently, exceptionally large models have been introduced that are powered by small gasoline engines, similar to weedwhacker motors, which use a mix of oil and gasoline. Electric rc cars are generally considered easier for the novice to work with compared to fuel-driven models, but can be equally as complex at the higher budget and skill levels. In both of these categories, both on-road and off-road vehicles are available. Off-road models, which are …

This was my first conspiracy theory. I built a race car when i was 19 and quickly realized how inefficient and outdated the motors were. Their longevity was a fraction of what they could be, this design flaw has the benefit of keeping the population as repeat customers.
Fuel inefficiency was something i couldnt figure out, why i could build an engine getting better gas mileage and more power than the factory.

There have been many inventors making cars more efficient over the years shut down and bought out buy various people, and never hitting the market.

my dad likes to work. every year i see him changing the oil in 6 different cars. one day he made me help him out. we drove all the way to a auto store and bought mobile one oil and dang it was expensive. we had to use over three bottles for just one car. after we weir done i was a mess. a friend told me his dad pays an auto shop only 20 bucks for them to change his oil. thats less than what we paid for the oil. i asked my dad why he didnt just send it into the shop and he told me was because the shops used cheap oil. is this true? do they use really crappy oil? is it like the differrence at the gas pump(regular and premium)? does it make any differrence using high quality oil? do your cars last longer if you use the best kind?
oh what oil do they use? if there differrent which auto shop is the worst? can you ask them to use a higher quality oil?

A mashup of some random track footage from N-control raceway and the Traxxas Torc Series @ Texas Motor Speedway. The Traxxas TORC Series-THE Off Road Championship, is the fastest, most punishing short course racing series on the planet. TORC events are packed with flag-to-flag fender banging as drivers push the limits over whoop and jump filled natural terrain racetracks. Off-road racing fans come from far and wide to experience this most challenging form of high-octane competition and once they taste TORC for the first time theyll be hooked for life. Radio-controlled (or R/C) cars are usually categorized as either “toy” or “hobby” grade. Remote control vehicles are usually of one of two types: control of a vehicle by radio transmission or by a wire connecting between the transmitter and car. This article focuses on the radio-controlled vehicle category, both toy and hobby grades. Cars are powered by various sources. Electric cars are powered by small but powerful electric motors and rechargeable nickel-cadmium, nickel metal hydride, or lithium polymer cells. There are also brushed or brushless electric motors. Most fuel-powered models use glow plug engines, small internal combustion engines fueled by a special mixture of nitromethane, methanol, and oil (in most cases a blend of castor oil and synthetic oil). These are referred to as “nitro” cars. Recently, exceptionally large models have been introduced that are powered by small gasoline engines, similar to weedwhacker …

I switched ’99 Intrepid to synthetic because I heard they have major problems with sludge in the 99 Intrepid with a 2.7L motor. Synthetic oil fights the formation of sludge far bette than conventional does, also I use it becuase the 2.7L motors run at higher avg. temp than most cars get ….so synthetic combats high temps. That and the motor will just last longer using synthetic.

Valvoline Synpower – 28.99 for 5L
or Mobil 1 if its on sale & I cant get Valvoline.
1999 Dodge Intrepid – 90,000km.

Id consider using Amsoil but its too much money. If you look at the analysis between mobil 1 and valvoline *synthetic* oil they are pretty much equal and for the money Valvoline is much cheaper …..plus I use there conventional oil so I stick with them.
As well I should mention along with amsoil being far more expensive…along with Redline & Royal Purple which are also supposed to be good….they are harder to get or have stocked at major stores. Actually Canadian Tire for those in Canada has for a good year or 2 been carrying amsoil i believe.

Forget about mileage. Let’s focus on time.
Is there an oil out there that lasts a year?
I only drive 3000 miles per year.
My owner’s manual says every 5000 miles or six months, whichever comes first.
The car has 93,000 miles on it. I heard that synthetic oils are not good choices for cars with high mileage. How about synthetic blends?
All I want is an oil that is suitable for my car and will maintain its properties for a year given that it’s rarely driven.