Mobile 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Castrol, Eneos, Quaker State
Ive got a 1999 ram 1500 quad cab with a 5.2l 318 engine. I normaly run regular unleaded fuel, I’ve installed a K&N air filter, quaker state synthetic oil, double platumin autolite plugs, and the napa belden silcone wires, I’ve also enlarged the tires to LT265-75r16 using the factory rims. on the highway i get on average (with the a/c OFF) about 13 to 14 mpg. If I turn ON the A/C, forget it, it drinks fuel like a can of beer! what else can i do to get better mileage?
What are your rights as a customer getting service done. I have paid 400$ to get my bike fixed and they have had my bik for over 2 weeks. They have claimed it to be fixed 3 times already, and i have taken it back 3 times.
It was intially taken in for stalling and not starting when the engine reached 200. They said carbs are fouling out and either they are dirty or fuel level is adjusted to high. They claimed they did this service. During the multiple returns they said an oil change would fix it, and that they replaced the plugs and that would fix it. Its not fixed.
The bike starts now and will run warm but will not accerate with any speed what so ever. I give it throttle while moving and it wont go. I couldnt go faster than 51mph on the freeway in 6th gear. They are now blaming it on the k&n air filter and keep asking if it has a jet kit. Wouldnt they be able to tell if it did from cleaning the carbs?
Any ideas of what it could be or what i sould do as the customer?
They are a Dealer of Suzuki, Yamaha, and Honda. I would have thought that having specialzing in motorcycle repair they should have it figured out in no time at all. They claim they got it up to 115mp on the dyno.
They said they did an oil change because of oil getting in the airbox and mixing with gas? I dont know alot about bikes but i dont trust them at all. They let me ride a bike that was not in riding condition at all.
2000 Yamaha R6
I dont know if its been jetted, and after i put the k&n in it worked fine for a while
the problem i took it there for intially was solved, but now i got the new problem. Is there any way to tell if they took the carbs apart and actually cleaned them, how long would that take. I was charged for 4.5hrs of work.
Thats what did first, i talked around asked a few mechanics and had one look at it as his house. He told me to take it to a shop becuase it was most liklely electrical, due to how strong it ran until 200 degrees. He advised me not to mess with the carbs and taking it to a service place would be able to pinpoint the problem. The place i took it to insisted it was the carbs.
I got this new 2009 Scion XB for my flower business. I want to know if should use regular oil or synthetic oil. I use synthetic oil for my 2 other cars that I use for my deliveries (2005 Dodge Magnum & 2006 Chevy HHR). What kind of motor oil should I use and what kind of oil filter should I use too?
So i’m on my way up a hill, and all of a sudden, the engine starts billowing out great big thick clouds of white smoke. I immediately shut it down. I started it back up, and it did the same thing. I then shut it down permanently.
I know that may indicate the death of the engine based on having grenaded a few motorcycle engines. I opened the hood, and did not see any oil leaking onto the exhaust – CRAP! I then looked in the exhaust, and DOUBLE CRAP! oil leaking out with the exhaust.
I know that usually means some severe internal problems. Either the head gasket has failed or the engine head itself is cracked. Could it be anything else?
I liked the mower, but it was only 0 from lowes. I was disappointed that it only lasted 4 years, especially after I upgraded most of the components on it earlier this year with new blades/filters/oil.
If I took it over to small engine repair, how much would it be to fix and/or swap the motor? Its a 15.5 briggs & stratton.
I thought briggs & stratton engines had a lifetime warranty, but am not sure if they would swap this one free of charge?
So what should I do? Try to fix this engine? Find a used/new briggs & stratton and swap the motors? Simply sell this on for scrap and go get a new one…definately not another bolens? Thanks for any advice!
I have an ’84 Ski Nautique. Its got a brand new motor & rebuilt transmission. The Motor runs very nice, but when out on the water as soon as I put it in gear, it stalls at idle/slow speeds. I tried putting it in gear after pulling it out of the water, and found that the propellor shaft bracket (whatever its called) was causing too much drag. I put some oil to test it out, and it seems to be fine at any speed, but once I put it back in the water, I know the oil would be gone.
Any suggestions? What should I do?
Hi, I ride a 2010 ninja 250 and have just over 1000 miles on my odometer.
I had the first oil change at my 500 mile service and I want to do a complete oil/filter change again at 1000 miles.
I already have all the items, (K&N oil filter, Maxima4 premium motorcycle oil, torque wrench).
After I drain the current oil, I was thinking of putting in some cheap "filler" oil like pennzoil, and riding the bike around for 5-10 miles.
After all this, I would completely drain the oil and filter and then put in my maxima4 oil.
Would using filler oil during regular oil changes help clean out the engine more? I heard that the filler oil turns completely black and dark after running it a couple of miles, true/false?
Would http://www.walgreens.com/store/catalog/Accessories/SAE-10W-40-Motor-Oil/ID=prod6015630-product?V=G&ec=frgl_&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=sku6014648
be ok for my motorcycle for 10 miles?
Thanks, this is the first time I’ll be doing mechanic work so I just want to be extra careful.
I have a 2000 Ford Police Interceptor with 75k miles and it due for an oil change. I was wondering what would be the best oil filter for it (without spending a fortune). How much does the Ford one cost? And what other brands are pretty good? I heard Fram and K&N are crap so I was considering Mobil 1 or ACDelco Oil Filters. Also, should I go with Quaker State 5w30 or get high mileage oil from another brand (Castrol, Mobil, etc.)? Definitely want synthetic. Well, thanks.
Well on my bike, it was making this noise starting about a month ago after I did an oil change. Wasn’t doing it at all before or very little so now it is. I decided to try a different oil and it helped. It now has Fully Synthetic 15W-50 in it (live in Phoenix, Arizona) getting ready for summer.
So anyway, the noise quieted down but it is still there. You can mainly here it on the right side of the bike cause that is where the cover is. But anyway, if you let it idle, put it in neutral, it will rattle. Coming from there – almost positive. It rides perfect, clutch doesn’t slip, shift gears really smooth and everything seems great. But if you put your ear next to the cover of the clutch, that is where the noise is. But since it rides perfect and doesn’t affect anything, what happened? Something rattling around in there? I don’t do wheelies or anything. Was a first bike for me so I stalled a few times for the first week and I’m sure that may have affected it but this didn’t start until a couple of weeks ago.
Here is a video… what happened? What should I look at replaced?
First video: Before switching oil – you could hear it bad:
http://s528.photobucket.com/albums/dd326/blk600cc/?action=view¤t=newest001.flv
Second video, after oil change… sounds better but still there.
http://s528.photobucket.com/albums/dd326/blk600cc/?action=view¤t=newvideo002.flv
Thanks
I have a 2001 Mustang 3.8L, and it’s that time again. I want to put a good oil filter in it this time around. I’m tossed up between Mobil 1, K&N, and the Motorcraft… If it helps, Im putting castrol GTX 5w-20 in the car. What do you all suggest? Don’t limit yourself to the 3 above, Those are just the ones I heard are better than most.
Also, I will be driving In the middle of a snowy winter
And Why or Why Not?
After this Remanufactured BLOCK http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160387868187&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Goes on thsi Remanufactured HEAD http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/pts/1644776099.html
And it all bolts up on my friend’s 90 Ciera that "Blew the Rod" … http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu72/jcorbi82/carpist2.jpg http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu72/jcorbi82/CARPIS.jpg
.. Would you the make the "Factory Fill" the Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife 5W-30 Motor Oil http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/maxlife/full-synthetic-motor-oil/3 instead of the MaxLife "Synthetic Blend" Motor Oil http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/maxlife/higher-mileage-motor-oil/2
.. in Grade 5W-30, and Why?
This is me earning my Finders Fee. THANKS!! 
)
Also, what else should he purchase to make this head and Block be all nice and perfect…
- Gasket "Set"
- OE Spark Plugs
- Water Pump
- Alternator
- NEW Belts
- 195-Degree Thernostat?
I recently purchased a 1997 Kawasaki Concours off of EBay. Shortly thereafter, I ordered a K&N permanent air filter in the mail. When I went to install it, I realized that the motorcycle did not have an existing air filter.
The guy I bought it from rarely used the bike, and he did take it in to the mechanic prior to selling it. The mechanic cleaned and synced all four carbs, changed oil, etc.
Both the seller and mechanic blame each other for the absence of the filter.
My question is this:
I have run the bike for about 1500 miles over the course of three weeks before realizing that there was no air filter. The bike seemed to begin to stutter a little in low RPMs, and I had to adjust the idle RPM because it would die periodically at stop lights.
What is the possible damage to the engine? How can I identify it? What is the best course of action for dealing with this now aside from the obvious use of the K&N starting now and changing the oil?
Thanks.
i have a 1993 f150 v8. i have always used conventional motor oil but today i decided to try synthetic because i heard it increases mpg and also i bought a k&n air filter. i have driven about 40 miles so far with this all in there and i havent really noticed a change in mpg but it seams to have better horsepower(cause of the air filter) i know these things may take a few fill ups but anybody ever had this experience before and can tell me?
i have used mobil 1 fully synthetic motor oil and a k&n air filter(just for referance)
Valvoline MaxLife doesnt come in Type F, AFAICT
Is the best "B&M TrickShift"?
Or should I add an Additive…?
