I have a 2002 Ford mustang GT 4.6L V8 2V SOHC 5 Speed Manual 60,000 Miles. Daily driver and weekend warrior. The owners manual say to use 5w20. I live in Houston TX. The car have the following MODS BBK Cool air intake Trick Flow 70mm throttle body Trick Flow upper plenum BBK under drive pulley kit BBK Long tubes Headers BBK off road X pipe Flow master American thunder cat back sistem Spec stage 1 clutch and pressure plate kit 3.73 Ford Racing rear end SCT programmer Chip and it is Dyno tune 93 Octane.Currently I am running Royal purple Full synthetic on the rear end , transmission , 5w20 on motor and regular Motorcraft Oil filter.Should I change to 10w20 or 5w30 or 10w30? What about the filter? Does it mater what kind of filter I use?
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I know that synthetic is man made and it will last longer between oil changes. But i wanna know the details between using each and how it varys on low milage cars and high milage cars? What are the pros and cons of using synthetic compared to conventional? And should i switch to synthetic for my 96 toyota 4runner 4 cly with 200,000 miles??? I also heard that if u start using synthetic you shouldnt switch back to conventional because it will cause some kind of damage to pistons or piston rings? HELLPPP!!!
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I have been running non-synthetic in my 2 stroke gas powered scooter. I just bought some synthetic racing oil and I am wanting to switch from the non-synthetic that is already in the tank. Should I run all of the gas and oil out of the tank before I switch to the synthetic oil? I don’t really want to run a mixture of the oils, but I’m wondering also if I run a few tanks with the new oil if the old oil will be completely gone or not?
Thank you
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See the full line of Castrol motorcycle-specific oil here: www.cyclegear.com Rick Elkins of Castrol‘s motorcycle division discusses the new oil for late-model sportbikes and touring motorcycles – Castrol’s Power RS R4 4T semi-synthetic (blend of synthetic and premium mineral oil) SL-rated oil, which is designed to reduce clutch slippage (in wet-clutch bikes) and maximize power.
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Bobby talks about the break-in peiod for new cars and upgrading to Royal Purple synthetic motor oil
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Quaker States Tech expert Mark Ferner answers your questions about motor oil
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I’ve used convential my entire life, and I am a hard sell on the 7500 mile life of the synthetics. It seems to me that the metal particles, dust particles, and other debris that contaminates motor oil will contaminate synthetic and conventional equally. I might believe that the oil does not break down as quickly, but what about all the particulates?
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I’m a motor/engine retard, so I assumed it would be fine. Some people are now telling me it was a stupid idea. Is this going to kill my lawn mower? And can I go back to using conventional oil now that I’ve run the lawn mower with the synthetic? I’ve been told you can’t go back…
Thank you!
Thanks to you both. I added it because it was all we had in the house and I was mid-mow. Didn’t want to run to the store. Thanks again!!!
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I use Mobil Clean 5000 right now. The UOA’s(Used Oil Analysis) on bobistheoilguy.com are not sufficient enough to give me good data. I really doubt Mobil would make a bad oil. The car runs wonderfully with it, and I drive 70% highway miles so there’s no "severe" driving for me to worry about with shorter OCI’s(Oil Change Intervals). I particularly like the 5000 mile guarantee. I use purolator oil filters only. My car is a 1991 Toyota Camry, so I don’t use synthetic. Older engines like this one don’t seem to be designed for synthetic oil from what I hear. (The car engine needs an overhaul because it does some slight oil burning, which is my other question here that has already been resolved) I was just wondering if for example someone drives the same car as I do, and has a lot of miles like I do (228,700). I just want to keep this car running as much as I can until I need to overhaul the engine. So what’s your favorite conventional oil?
dodge man: I tried synthetic once, but my oil burning increased a good deal. I guess I could try a heavier level synthetic, I haven’t tried that before. I know for a fact that synthetic oil is much better and maybe I will give it another try. I can’t help but notice your extreme amount of best answers and the fact that you are a certified mechanic. Have you ever worked with this engine before? I was only wondering. But considering your advice I will probably try synthetic again. I used 10W-30 synthetic but the oil pressure was low, I believe due to increased clearances from engine wear. I guess I should try a 10W-40 synthetic.
The guy who had my car before me really didn’t take care of it, I really did all the maintenance work I’m capable of to keep the car running well. (Transmission fluid/filter change, added a Tranny cooler, religious oil changes, new struts, tires, brakes, cv axles, timing belt, spark plugs…)
I know conventional oil has increased in quality by leaps and bounds the past 20 years. That’s great for all of us. It seems like it doesn’t matter as much what oil you use. I just like the Mobil Clean 5000′s guarantee that I can change oil every 5000 miles.
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How do you know which is best to use in your vehicle or motorcycle, synthetic, non-synthetic or semi-synthetic motor oil?
